Saturday, July 14, 2012

Final Project: Mood Painting


This is my matte painting. Here I present a realistic apocalyptic hide out. The scenerio was turned into a bloody battle where defense is been taken near this house. A lot of painting and blending modes and layer styles were applied using this. Trail and error occured first as i tried to change the sky into something different. When using a channeled layer to try to removed did not work
successfully. With that done not working I decided to work with the lighted sky I had and added a sun shine come it going through the gaps between the trees. A brush set to dissolve was used then fiitered with a radius blur. To make lighting real on the painting I brightened the side of the house where was hit along with the rocks and made the other side darker. Painting on the rocks was done were I added extra green for agedness and blood for décor. The hole in the house was also done as a it was it an extra exit out to defend the lines. After painting the hole I added a layer style to make it pop out more. And extra cracks, stains, and blood were added to the house for more décor. The wall you see at the front is a barrier to hold of trespassers for a while. I painted more stains and blood on this barrier. Many adjustment layers were used to get a decent looking scene.

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Texture Maps



original picture from cgtexture
Creating textures can be done in a Photoshop best done using high resolution pictures. To find high resolution pictures cgtextures.com is a good place to start. For my texture I chose a rough rock texture and began to alter it in Photoshop. To begin my first step was to offset my picture so it the pattern would continue when modeled. Then I began doing small changes like the color by laying a light color of brown and adding a soft light blending layer. From there many adjustment layers where added. I also added depth in between the top where the crack divides the rock. After I adjusted the color of the rock I then started to paint over it. Different brushes like a splatter brush were used to paint blood. To make the splatter look so unoriginal I erased some away. Many different tones like grey and dark brown were painted to the rock to make it look aged. Many different blending layers where used like lighten, lighten color, subtract, and saturation were used on all different paint layers. This was now finished and was my foundation for a texture that was now going to be put into a program called Crazy Bump to get different texture maps.  
normal map: based off lighting detal to show depth.
specular map: highlightsm what makes the object shine 






diffuse map: color map and basic texture

Monday, July 2, 2012

Beach: People Removal

Removing people from a image can be pretty easy once you get to know Photoshop and understands its tools. For this assignment we had to take a photo and remove them by using a mainly the spot healing brush. Once you have this tool there are a few optional like content-aware and proximity match. The main option to remove an object would be to use spot healing brush with content-aware on. After you get your removed piece you can then switch to proximity match to start to blend the piece and make it look like nothing was there at all. If that doesn’t work you can also use the clone stamp tool. In the image of the beach I removed plenty of people from the handful of people in the picture. The only issue I had was trying to remove the people near the net. The volley ball net came out blurry but it was I wanted to try anyway to see if I could do it. See if you can spot the people that I removed.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

A remastered version of my other planet this matte painting is a lot better. Still I will provide a recap on how I achieved my final painting. I began with a document size around 1200 width 1600 height both in pixels with a transparent background. To the transparent background I filled it with white and low opacity. Then with a soft brush I scattered some black around. Next was to make some clouds. You can do this with render clouds under filter tab. I used difference clouds and is also located under the filter tab. I repeated this process at least three times and put them in their own layers. With my first set of clouds I added a gradient overlay to put my colors in. Next I began with the star layer. To do this in a good way you can also find a useful tool under the filter tab called noise. Make a new layer filled with black and under the filter tab find noise. You want to make sure Gaussian and monochromatic are checked. After you get your noise you want to use levels to bring out some brighter “stars”. You can do this process twice if you like. Still working on my atmosphere I wanted to add some extra color. I simply picked a color I wanted filled it in a new layer and with a soft brush I erased the color away. Lastly I took away from the edges painting a black edged outline because its outer space and black is necessary. To bring everything together that I had so far I added a color balance adjustment layer. Now working the planet, moon, and asteroid was my next goal. First I did these two light explosion circles by using a large hard brush and added an outer glow to it. Then to add to this explosion I added light rays. To get light rays you start by using a brush with dissolve checked. After you get a stroke you like add a radial blur from the filter tab. Also make sure you have zoom and best checked when using blur from the filter tab to get light rays. Now to the earth many different shades were added to it by using the brush tool. Some black, white, and blue shades where added to spots where needed. Lastly to finish up earth another color back was applied. The moon was transformed by using hue/saturation and color balance to get a fitting piece. Finally with the rock I thought a different way to use it. I used a clone stamp tool on it and started to paint the earth where it was colliding with the moon. I wanted to use the rock because it had a good texture that seem like magma and rock from the earth core. I also used the clone stamp from the rock to make the debris floating from earth. To make the colors fit hue/saturation and color was used once more. Lastly just to incorporate the rock I added it to the bottom flying past earth as it smashed into by the moon. I used a lasso tool to get the stream behind the rock. I then used the gradient tool to get colors I wanted, but I couldn’t get the colors to fit so I applied luminosity from the blending options. The rock is supposed to be a shooting star but that’s irony as earth is being destroyed.  

Monday, June 25, 2012

Planet Earth: Matte

This planet and its atmosphere were done by using some techniques in Photoshop. To begin with my clouds and star field a layer with a white background with 75% opacity was used. Then I used a soft brush with a preset of 1000% scatter and both axes checked. A filter was used to make clouds. Render and different clouds was used. I then set a layer style over it, gradient overlay, picked my purple and green colors, then set scaled to 50% with an angle of 135. To make the star layer a new layer filled with black was used. Another filter tool was applied this time noise. I added noise the amount around 10% with Gaussian and monochromatic clicked. I adjusted this layer using levels tools to bring amount a right of stars. Then I duplicated this layer again and adjusted this layer with levels.  To create extra stars for my purposes I used a custom brush with a layer style added to it. This created my background. The layers involving the earth involved blending layers like overlay. I added some extra color to my background too by adding a layer over with then erasing it.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Night to Day: Matte Painting


To begin my process I first removed the sky from the original background. I did this by using the color range on the sky and after that applied a refine edge for a better selection. Then I placed my selection in a layer mask. Next step was to remove the people and tent. The spot healing brush was used to accomplish the removal of the unnecessary items. While doing the spot healing process some of the railings from the building were taken away, to get back these railings the clone stamp was used with a soft brush. For the remaining development of turning this building into a night scene, adjustment layers were the basic fundamentals. Working with the building, first adjustment layer I used was the brightness to really bring down the shadows. Next was the levels and this brought out some of the mid-tones back into the image. I slightly applied some curve to the image to gather some more darkness. One major adjustment layer was the hue/saturation. This brought out more of the dark tan colors in the building and the green in grass. Lastly the photo filter was used to add a slight shade of violet over the image. Now working the sky was my next goal. I added brightness/contrast, exposure, and color balance were the adjustment layers I used to get a fitting picture to match the building and its lighting. Also I duplicated the moon to add to another layer where overlay blending mode was used.    
ORIGINAL DAY IMAGE

MY REDONE NIGHT SCENE


Monday, June 18, 2012

Meteor City Matte

For this matte we had to finish up a city being impacted by meteors. A few techniques used were clone stamp tool, custom brushes, and gradients.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Matte Painting Pratice: Cliff


In class we are now working on matte paintings. Matte painting can be a photo or multiple photos combined with painting done over to create a whole new mood and/or scene. Given three photos, I had to put them together to create my matte painting. Only beginning the process we are just working with adjustment layers to color correct the images to fit together. I begin with the photo of the man, which he was removed him from the background. I did this by using quick mask tool and I decided to remove the background instead of painting over the man to get the selection. This seemed easier to me after examining the photo. Refine edge was used after getting my selection were I did a few modifies like smooth edge, shift edge, and contrast. After that I then placed my newly selected man into a different background which seemed more adventurous. Now with my man in the new background I needed to replace the sky. Again I used the quick mask tool to on the sky to get a selection, after that I deleted it to make room for my new sky. The photo of the new sky to my convenience fitted nicely and all I had to do was insert the photo. To begin color correcting I started using color balance on the entire photo and brought out colors I thought necessary. Then hue/saturation was applied to lighten up some of the colors. Now I began using levels separately on the three different images to bring the shadows and mid-tones to the same level. Brightness/contrast was used on the sky and the man to help with the balance. To help finish my piece I added a warming photo filter. Last adjustment layer I added and I thought was necessary was the vibrance and this made the image to look gloomy. My one thought on the piece while working on it was the achieving a nondestructive work flow. It’s a step I missed but it was only while working the quick mask.


Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Blending Colors with Brushes

For our assignment we had to properly blend colors by using only the brush tool. To start a quick tip is to use the magic wand on an empty shape to color in. This is useful because when the marquee appears around that shape and you start paint it will allow for you to stay within that marquee line. I first approached the rectangle and begin working with a hard surface brush. A quick way to obtain a color is to us the eyedropper tool. So I jump around and still with the hard brush I paint the top, bottom, and couple of strokes in between those to get a rough of what colors I’m going to blending into. After that I switch over to a soft brush and start painting in between those strokes. The blending still wasn’t done and I went back a third time, still with a soft surfaced brush but this with the opacity and flow turned down to around 85%. This took care of any eye catching color transitions that didn’t look right. That would finish my blending for this rectangle shape. Next and for me the more difficult shape was the circle. I approached this the same way as the rectangle but I soon realized this was not going to work. To solve one my problems I applied the rulers’ tool so that I can bring the guides out. The guides allowed me to divide the circle into sections and help me blend and gather colors. Again I started with the hard brush to color inside the inner circle. That’s the end of hard brush because it didn’t appropriately for the rest of the blending. Now the soft brush was my main tool and I went back and forth, painting this circle trying to get all the colors and to blend properly. Even with the opacity and flow lowered I did not like the blending that was done. Although very minor the change I did to help get the blending I wanted was to make the brush size bigger. This helped and in the end I achieved an accurately close blend of colors.

Sunday, June 3, 2012



Creating custom brushes can be done in Photoshop are useful for adding textures. For my brushes I gathered a few images from flicker.com. Each of the images was enhanced by using the levels tool. Brightness/contrast was used to touch up a few images along with the shadow/highlights tool. For the water drops and spider web the lasso tool was used to get a selection I wanted. Only for the ground with cracks I converted the image mode into grayscale, then use Threshold to isolate the cracks. My other two images were left as is. The next step after getting my custom brush selections was to modify them with preset option. My best preset brush was the cracks brush. It develops good cracks that could be used for walls or ground images. The bark and spider web brushes were so so and I could be improved after explain my troubles for other brushes. Some problems I had are getting the brush to be realistic and also to flow well. For example the water drop brush was something I had in mind that I thought ideally could be used on any object. After doing an image adjustment and making my selection I had spent some time in the preset option but I could get what I wanted. Along with the rust brush I wanted to create a texture but as much I played around with the preset it seems like I couldn’t make a difference. The most I got from the preset options was different shades. In the end some images worked better than the other.




Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Blending Pratice

Here I present you two images that I have blended into one. The goal of this assignment was to use new tools which would be the blending modes, layers styles, and within layer styles the blend if. The images I choose where the Alder Planetarium which I had taken a photo of and I wanted a beautiful sky image which I had to find of the web from flicker.com. My first steps were to color correct both images. Then after that I decided both images were color corrected I put a blending option on them. The sky had multiply and the planetarium had darkened blending modes. By doing this it poorly blended the images so to get a better look I added blend if to the sky to get an equal amount of sky to go through the planetarium image. Last I decided to throw some layer styles on the planetarium.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Color Correction 2

 
To the left you see a photo that I have taken from Millennium Park in my Chicago area.  From it I will display more color correction techniques to improve this photo. To add more dynamism I selected two objects from the photo and individually developed upon them. The two objects I enhanced were the blue and yellow circles. I selected these by using the same methods and that is by means of color range and quick selection tool. After which I manage to a get selection around my objects I then applied a refined edge to get a more thorough piece. From here I knew I wanted to work on these objects first and then balance out theoverall photo/image. Adjustment layers were utilized and will always be executed from here on out be to perform a non-destructive work flow. On the blue circle brightness/contrast, levels, and hue/saturation adjustment layers were used to achieve a more lively blue. Next for the yellow circle the same adjustment layers were repeated as the blue circle, but I removed the curves layer later on to better fit the piece. Also with the curves layer removed it showed more shadows around areas where needed that brought out the shapes of this artwork clearer. Now with both circled objects color corrected it was time to fit the background appropriately with those. The first adjustment layer that was used was the color balance. This did an alright job of bringing out the green in the trees and it slightly effected the overall environment. It was not until I applied the hue/saturation layer to get more real green for leaves and cleaner quality for the concrete and buildings. Also througout using these layers I kept in mind the Crown Fountain (tower with face in the background) to develop and keep its color. Finally the brightness and levels layers were the last touch to my photo to bring a pleasant clear day. You can see resluts below.

Color Correction 1


Here are my color corrected pictures. Displayed on the left sides are the original picture and the right side is my work. So first is the bird which I ended up having an old photo feel to it. Right away I noticed an issue with the upper left corner that casted a shadow, bringing the brightness up in the photo made that part very distorted so I decided to turn the brightness down. By bringing down the brightness it lowered many tones of the pictures colors, so my next step was to use the levels tool to bring out some mid-tones along with a slight brightness to the birds feathers. Still the photo had an unnatural look and to fix this I added curves that improved the red color of the bird’s beak and at the same time incorporated a nice mellow yellow to overall photo.

Next for the rooster in the shadow I immediately knew I wanted to make it a day scene. Being the photo was really dark I started with the levels tool to quickly get a rough day scene. After that I used blue channel within the curves tool to lightly add blue to it. Now at this point this I kept rolling and decided if I was going to add brightness/contrast to this photo it was no longer going to be a day scene, but an morning scene with the idea of the sun being above the rooster. With the limitations of only use the top image adjustments for Photoshop for this assignment I used curves again to bring some color in the photo. Lastly to convey a shine around the roosters head and back the levels tools was used.

Now for the Quirigua monument I started off going for night scene. I do so at first with the brightness by lowering it. Then with the levels tools I ended up bringing out a cleaner darker green for the leaves and the grey tones with the monument. Now to my surprise I wanted to make to sky darker and so I thought that by using the blue channels within the curves this would do the job, but instead it made the trees and grass greener. Here is where my original idea switched from night to just improving the photo overall into a beautiful day. I went and added a second brightness/contrast and notched them up. And lastly I incorporated another curves this time from the green channel and this made everything come together attractively.  


Proffiency




Here is a collage I have made for my Game Design II class. We were to find a poem or haiku and create an inspirational piece from it. After finding a haiku that I liked it was now time to put a picture to it. With the haiku that I picked I wanted to go for twilight zone feel, almost calm but eerie. The next step was to find an image which was done on flicker.com. The background, communication tower, flat line, hand print, space ship, and the silhouette of the house are all separate images that have had selections removed them. The selections tools I used were the magic wand along with quick selection. For the communication tower I took a different approach and used the color range to remove the background and leave the tower by its self along with the grassland. Almost all of these selections were put into mask layers. Also I used some adjustment layers to balance out the picture. And for the flat line and hand print different blending modes were applied to fit the whole image. These were the main steps I used to create my collage.

Research and Development 1


This video was helpful for showing some really good ways to select and remove items but also by doing it in non-destructive way. I really liked his first example were he used the Blending Options from the Layer Styles to combine two images to make one. Although it was unconventional I appreciate that he still showed this because it can always come in handy for later work. Another technique to remove selections that I was not aware of was the Color Range. Color Range is similar to the Magic Wand tool but with slightly more control over the tolerance of pixels/colors that would be selected. By using the Color Range you can get rid of some difficult backgrounds and have them replaced. The most important technique to be taken away from this video is the Mask tool. By always making selections into a Mask you can achieve a non-destructive work flow, plus can do more with the Mask tool. Refine Mask is also important for improving your selections which include contrast, radius, and shift edge, etc. These were the main topics that had been discussed in the video along with some key boards short cut to these tools. One final thing that I took note on was his progress of work. He says and I believe to find true is to start by making a rough selections and improving upon that step by step to get a better selection, instead of trying to take care of the situation in one huge step. All of these techniques will be used on my assignment for class were I will make a collage inspired by a poem.